Watching a 3-33 foot wave coming down on you, after paddling through a set of waves, while quickly gasping for air before diving underwater water again to avoid getting rolled and slammed into the sand or rocks below is actually really fun, I promise. It's one of those things some of us have to do to challenge ourselves and remember we are still alive.
It's something that drives us to push the limits, to see what we are made of. Catch the wave or get rolled and slammed to the ground. Overcoming failures forges excellence, get back up and get back on the board, the horse, the bull, the stage, the phone, get back up and get to work and catch the next one.